Ghost Story

You may see him standing alone in the Alamo gardens. Despite high temperatures and a cloudless day, he is clothed in a dark, full-length coat. Water drips off the brim of his hat. His face is shadowed, his mood sombre. As you alert a nearby acquaintance to "take a look" at this tenebrous spectre -- he vanishes.

It was during a rain-soaked week in March, 1836, that 189 defenders (Texans) and 1,600 Mexican troops (the actual numbers are still debated) lost their lives during the siege of the Alamo. All that is left standing of the original fortress is the Mission San Antonio de Valera, the church which visitors refer to as "the Alamo," and a portion of the Long Barracks where defender Jim Bowie was bayoneted while lying ill in his hospital bed.

Stepping into this American shrine of independence, you are enveloped you in sadness. Sadness for the defenders who chose to remain, knowing they would meet certain death. Sadness for the Mexicans who died trying to wrest back their land. Sadness that so little remains of this historic 18th-century mission. No one who visits the Alamo can ever forget it. Some who fought and lived at the Alamo seem unable to leave it.

Martin Leal is well versed in the history of San Antonio, Texas, and well acquainted with the permanent paranormal residents of the Alamo and the buildings that currently sit on its battlefields. Martin leads the Hauntings History of San Antonio Ghost Hunt, and has been featured on radio and television shows. Martin has a quick wit and you have to think fast to keep up with him. Fortunately, you don�t have to walk fast to keep up.

My husband Ron and I both have osteoarthritis and have been through numerous knee surgeries. We remain avid travellers, searching out interesting adventures. It was our search for accessible tours in San Antonio that led us to Martin.

Martin, whose brother uses a wheelchair, says, "I have learned to help people in a similar situation as much as I can. I designed a route that would be easy to travel and have regular stops, most with a place to sit."

Our one-and-a-half-hour tour was easily navigated, partly thanks to the flat terrain, wide sidewalks and cutaway curbs that are the norm in downtown San Antonio. Martin made frequent stops where we could sit down and learn about San Antonio�s haunted history. Martin stressed to us that we were not on a mere "tour" -- but a ghost hunt. He wants participants to learn about how and why ghosts manifest themselves as well as how to capture these unexplainable appearances on film.

Martin suggests participants load their cameras with 800 ASA film. "You want a fast film, as ghosts may be cycling at a rate that is not detectable to the human eye." Martin explains that this is also the reason most people "see" ghosts with their peripheral vision. "Your peripheral vision is more sensitive to movement," he points out. Photographing ghosts is basically taking a shot in the dark. If you�re lucky, something may show up when your photos are developed -- usually observed as diaphanous wisps of smoke or misty, vortex-like streaks.

Our hunt begins at the Alamo defenders� monument -- the Cenotaph -- that sits directly in front of the Alamo. Built in 1940 by Italian-Texan sculptor Pompeo Coppini, the sculpture depicts an ethereal figure rising heavenward, torch in hand. Beneath the figure�s feet lie the crumpled bodies of the Alamo defenders.

It seems an apparition can be thanked that the Alamo�s Mission is still here to visit. In the aftermath of the siege, the bodies of the defenders (those who fought for independence at the Alamo) were burned in three large pyres; one of those pyres was located on the grounds of the Alamo. Santa Ana sent General Andrade with a small number of Mexican troops back to the Alamo following its capture. Santa Ana wanted to have the Alamo razed to prevent it becoming a shrine to the defenders. But Andrade and his troops witnessed a phantom guard rising from the burning pyre, flaming balls of fire in its outstretched arms. A hasty retreat ensued, and what remains of the Alamo was saved.

Martin explains why the Alamo is San Antonio�s hotbed of paranormal activity. Ghosts have a few reasons for not "passing over." They may have unfinished business, such as a promise they made while living that hasn�t been fulfilled. They may have died suddenly and/or violently and not realize they are dead. They may "just like it" where they are now and not want to leave. The Alamo seems to hold its spirits for the first two reasons. As Martin says, and Alamo curator Dr. Bruce Winders confirms, the defenders of the Alamo were absolutely passionate about their cause and prepared to die for it. Perhaps they feel that they still have a duty to defend this monument. There is no doubt that

their deaths were untimely, violent and emotionally charged.

Our "hunt" takes us past a number of beautiful historic and haunted hotels. These include the Menger, Gunter and St. Anthony hotels. Martin thinks hotels such as the historic Menger, with its 34 resident spirits, hold pleasant memories that leave spirits unwilling to check out.

Prior to our ghost hunt, Ernesto Malacara, the assistant manager of the Menger Hotel, took time from his duties to tell us about one of the hotel�s permanent residents. Sally White, a chambermaid and faithful employee of the Menger, was shot and killed by her jealous husband in 1876. She had no other family, so the management of the Menger arranged and paid for her funeral. Sally remains a faithful employee to this day. Guests mention seeing a chambermaid dressed in old-fashioned clothes sorting towels in the hallway. Some guests are annoyed when Sally ignores their requests for service but become even more alarmed when she pulls her disappearing act.

Martin directs us to take a close look at the outer fa�ade of the Emily Morgan Hotel. Located directly across the street from the Long Barracks of the Alamo, the hotel was San Antonio�s Medical Arts building until 1976. Overhead, a bevy of grimacing gargoyles greet guests entering the hotel. Their contorted faces and crouched bodies tell of toothaches and other agonies -- not the most welcoming sight! The more haunted floors of this hotel once housed the hospital�s morgue and operating rooms.

Our tour ends where it began -- on the grounds of the Alamo. Martin hands me a pair of "spectral goggles" used to detect auras. He demonstrates other devices used in hunting ghosts. Theory holds that spirits draw energy from their surroundings, leaving cold spots that can be detected using non-contact thermometers. Spectral goggles in place, I snap pictures in the dark while trying to detect cold spots with my thermometer gun. Unfortunately I don�t detect anything, but hold out hope my camera will capture what I can�t see (it didn�t).

Psychics who visit the Alamo today report that the spirits they encounter seem to be in a great state of confusion. Martin accounts for this confusion by detailing the final moments of battle when a besieged group of defenders, whose leaders were killed early in the battle, tried to deal with the deluge of Mexican troops scaling the walls on all sides.

Another possibility occurs to me. During our visit with Ernesto Malacara, he had commented, "I often wonder what the spirits see when they visit." Maybe it�s a middle-aged woman wearing goggles, carrying a temperature gun and wandering aimlessly on their battleground... No wonder the spirits of the Alamo are confused!

(Barb and Ron Taylor are a travel writer and photographer team living in Calgary, Alberta.)

RESOURCES

GHOST HUNTS

Hauntings History of San Antonio

Investigations begin at the Alamo defenders� monument. Cost is $10 for adults, $5 for ages 17 and under, free for children 8 and under. The tour is accessible and begins at 7:30 p.m. Reservations required.

Phone: (210) 436-5417

Website: www.webspawner.com/users/ghosttour

OTHER HAUNTED SITES

The Witte Museum

3801 Broadway

Phone: (210) 357-1900

Website: www.wittemuseum.org

Admission is $5.95 for adults, $4.95 for seniors, $3.95 for children ages 4 to 11, free for children 3 and under. Free on Tuesdays. Accessible.

This delightful hands-on science museum is believed to be haunted by the spirit of museum founder Ellen Schulz Quillin. In its Haunted Halls exhibit, visitors can chat with the "spirit" of Ellen following performances of "A Gallery of Ghosts."

The Institute of Texan Cultures

801 South Bowie St.

Phone: (210) 458-2300

Website: www.texascultures.utsa.edu.

Accessible. Admission: $4 for adults, $2 for children 3 to 12 years and seniors, free for children 2 and under. This museum showcases 27 of the ethnic and cultural groups that settled the state. While there, take a close look at the Castroville Hearse. Security guards often find its back doors wide open when making their nightly rounds. Trouble is, those doors are normally latched firmly shut! The guide we were with

told us that a couple weeks prior to our visit, the hearse was found in the Native American exhibit. No one knows how it got there.

HAUNTED ACCESSIBLE HOTELS

The Menger Hotel

204 Alamo Plaza

Phone: 1-800 345-9285

Website: www.mengerhotel.com

E-mail: [email protected]

Historical elegance and lots of ghosts! So many ghosts, in fact, that assistant manager Ernesto Malacara is co-writing a book on the hotel�s permanent guests. The Menger dates from 1859 and has had many illustrious visitors (living and otherwise), including Teddy Roosevelt, who recruited his Roughriders in the Hotel�s bar. Robert E. Lee supposedly rode his horse into the hotel lobby. The location is perfect for touring the Alamo and Riverwalk area.

The Ramada Emily Morgan Hotel

705 E. Houston St.

Phone: (210) 225-8486

Formerly San Antonio�s Medical Arts building, there are strange happenings on the seventh and 12th floors as well as the basement which once served as a morgue.

The Gunter Hotel

205 E. Houston St.

Phone: (210) 227-3241

A blonde phantom is reported to lurk near room 636 (the room number has been changed). She was apparently the victim of a murder.

St. Anthony Hotel

300 E. Travis

Phone: (210) 227-0915

Website: www.stanthonyhotel.com

Doors to the roof garden apparently open by themselves.

NON-HAUNTED ACCESSIBLE HOTELS (for those who want to sleep at night!)

Radisson Market Square

502 W. Durango

Phone: (210) 224-7155

Located near Market Square and away from the more haunted downtown area. Accessible, but recommended for those with their own transportation, as you�ll have to drive or rely on the bus system to get around. We stayed here and loved it!

DINING

Most of San Antonio�s nightlife is along the River Walk, which is accessible by ramps and elevators at specific locations. We�d advise heading there during the day as it becomes very crowded in the evening. The River Walk is lined with nightclubs and restaurants. You can go on a beautiful (wheelchair accessible) cruise of the river with Yanaguana Cruise, which wends through downtown San Antonio.

Casa Rio

430 E. Commerce

Phone: (210) 225-6718

San Antonio�s original River Walk restaurant. Accessible from street level by elevator.

Mi Tierra Caf� and Bakery

218 Produce Row (Market Square)

Phone: (210) 225-1262.

Open 24 hours. Our favorite, hands down! Accessible. Terrific Mexican food and a wide range of Mexican bread and sweet rolls for a quick breakfast or snack.

TRANSPORTATION

Via Metropolitan Transit

Phone: (210) 362-2020

TTY: (210) 362-2019.

San Antonio�s bus system also provides accessible information on its website: www.viainfo.net/accessible_services/index.html

PUBLICATIONS

"Your Accessible Riverwalk"

City of San Antonio, Planning Department

P.O. Box 830066

San Antonio, Texas

78283-3966 U.S.A.

"Spirits of the Alamo"

By Robert Wlodarski and Anne Powell Wlodarski

Republic of Texas Press, 1999

"The Texas Monthly Guidebook -- San Antonio"

By Nancy Haston Foster

Gulf Publishing Company, Houston Texas, 1998

Includes accessibility ratings.